Removing a wall or adding an opening? Get a rough idea first.
Answer a few plain-English questions and this tool gives you a quick, indicative read on whether you're looking at a standard timber lintel or a serious beam — before you call anyone. For peace of mind, follow it up with a $79 engineer Desktop Review.
This is built on the same Australian Standards engineering method I use day to day (AS 1720 timber design, AS 1170 loads). It's deliberately a rough guide only — not a design, and definitely not a certificate. Use it to understand your project, then let me check it properly.
Tell me about your opening
Your project
Don't worry if you're not sure on a number — leave the sensible default and the Desktop Review will confirm everything.
Tiles are much heavier than metal sheeting — it makes a real difference.
The clear distance the beam has to span across the gap.
The gap the beam must cross — measure the clear opening, not wall-to-wall.
2.4 m
Roughly, the distance from this wall to the next wall (or support) that shares the load. If unsure, leave it — bigger is safer.
About half the distance to the support on each side rests on your wall — that shaded width is what to enter.
4.0 m
Indicative result only
Typical size — an example, not your final spec
Opening width
Estimated load carried
Estimated bending demand
Rough estimates from typical values — your real numbers will differ. This is why a proper review matters.
⚠ Please read — this is not a design or a certificate
This free tool makes a lot of safe assumptions and cannot see your actual house. It does not account for:
The real loads, wall above, point loads from other beams or trusses, or whether the wall is actually load-bearing
Connections, supports, bearing at the ends, propping during the work, and what the beam sits on
Wind, the timber grade actually available, deflection of brittle finishes, and council/NCC requirements
Any size shown is an indicative example of what similar openings often use — it is not a recommendation for your specific opening. Do not order materials or start work from this result. A registered structural engineer must review your specific situation.
Ready for a real answer?
Three simple steps — start small, upgrade only if you need to. Each step's cost comes off the next one.